Taking off on a left which is my backside
Looking to work my way back up the wave face
Working to hang on to the takeoff of this building wave
Feeling the wave chasing . . .
. . . and trying to escape before this overhead wave breaks
Taking a turn off the lip, not quite Kelly Slater crispness
Another right overhead
This is when surfing is fun
One wave peters out as swell builds behind me
Cruising in after the session
2 comments:
Garwood - Nice blog. Came across this blog randomly through Facebook. I lived in CR for a year after Pton - seeing a lot of familiar places. You are definitely a much better surfer than me though. Wishing I was there right now considering temps are below freezing here in DC. Pura vida, C. Gomez
will these pics are amazing. unbelievable
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